Collagen & Skin Health
Intro
Collagen is a string of amino acids naturally made by the body’s own cells that helps make skin appear youthful and vital by supporting skin hydration, promoting skin firmness, and helping skin look and feel bouncy. Outside of the skin, collagen can also be found in joints, blood vessels, and more.
In recent years, the beauty industry shifted towards beauty supplements containing collagen peptides with claiming to help with skin hydration and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. But, what does science really have to say about collagen & these claims from the beauty industry and the supplement industry?
In this blog post, we dive into all things collagen and skin, and you’ll learn:
What collagen does & how it’s made
The research and studies completed on collagen peptides
Approaches to protect & build collagen
What collagen does & how it’s made
But first, what does collagen do?
There are at least 16 different types of collagen, and they are the most abundant proteins in mammals. Collagens are a string of amino acids that help form the collagen protein that are important for scaffolding cells to maintain tissue structure and shape, cellular communication, and more. The types of collagen that are primarily found in the skin are Types I and III, and these types are responsible for providing tensile strength to the skin (and other tissues). Illustrating how strong collagen is, science indicates that “gram for gram, type I collagen is stronger than steel.”
How is collagen made?
Moving forward, we are just going to be focusing on collagen in the skin. To make collagen, cells first start off making "procollagen”, which is a collagen precursor. Procollagen is processed by the cell and ends up being cut up by enzymes called procollagen peptidases, making procollagen into mature collagen. And, it should be noted that science indicates that vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is necessary to properly process procollagen to make mature collagen.
How does collagen play a role in aging?
When speaking about collagen and signs of aging, we first need to talk about a class of enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). MMPs are responsible for breaking down collagen when triggered by UV radiation, cellular stress, inflammation, and more. And, science shows that activation or MMPs in the skin can influence the development of age-related changes in the skin, specifically solar elastosis, which is defined as “thickened, coarsely wrinkled skin.” In addition to this, research completed on animal models investigating the effect of chronic exposure to UV radiation and infrared radiation (both found in sunlight) on skin revealed that chronic exposure to infrared radiation activated MMPs and that chronic exposure to infrared radiation led to the formation of wrinkles.
Collagen peptides: Real or Fake?
So, science shows that collagen made by the body’s own cells play a role in promoting skin strength and that MMPs can influence age-related changes in the skin. Because of this, it has become popular for many to take collagen supplements, specifically collagen peptides. But, what does science have to say?
Research on collagen peptides:
A 2014 study completed with 114 females aged between 45-65 years-old taking “bioactive collagen peptide” (BCP) or placebo once daily for 8 weeks showed that after 4 weeks and 8 weeks of BCP led to significant reduction of eye wrinkle volume compared to placebo. Researchers also found that 8 weeks of BPC led to significantly higher levels of procollagen I and elastin compared to placebo.
Another study completed in 2015 showed that oral collagen peptide supplementation “significantly increased skin hydration after 8 weeks of intake,” and that collagen significantly increased in the dermis of the skin. Researchers also saw that collagen fragmentation significantly reduced after4 weeks of supplementation.
More recently, a study completed in 2018 looking at the effect of low-molecular weight collage peptides on skin hydration, wrinkling, and elasticity found that 12 weeks of supplementation led to improvements in skin hydration and skin wrinkling compared to placebo. Researchers also found that 12 weeks of supplementation led to improvement in 1 out of 3 parameters for skin elasticity. And an animal study completed in 2018 showed that oral supplementation of collagen peptides promote the production of hyaluronic acid in skin. Researchers also saw that subjects taking oral collagen peptides had higher skin hydration and decreased wrinkle formation compared to placebo.
Takeaway:
So, there is literature that indicates that oral supplementation of collagen peptides optimizes skin hydration and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. However, we know that when humans consume proteins, they need to be broken down to their building blocks (amino acids) in order to be absorbed. And once absorbed, these amino acids are free to be used anywhere in the body.
So, with what we know about collagen peptides so far, we now need to ask: Do orally ingested collagen peptides go directly to the skin OR are they also used elsewhere in the body at the same time? And, there is no literature about this just yet. Because of this uncertainty and lack of research thus far, many medical providers are weary about collagen peptides for promoting skin health.
However, we do have research about procedures that can promote collagen in the skin in a targeted manner! Keep on reading to learn more.
protecting & building Skin’s collagen
Protection is key, especially when it comes to the natural collagen your own body makes. And when it comes to collagen protection, it means protecting the skin from sun damage and balancing the activity of MMPs. And, when protection just isn’t enough, there are procedures that have been shown to support collagen production in the skin in a targeted-manner. Remember, before trying anything new, always speak to your trusted provider to see what is worth your while.
Protecting Collagen
Sunscreen products are meant to act as a topical barrier on the skin to prevent the damaging effects of UV radiation from sunlight. Science indicates that UV radiation plays a role in age-related skin changes through oxidative stress and downstream activation of MMPs, ultimately leading to the degradation of collagen. Additionally, sunlight contains UV-A and UV-B radiation, and research indicates that UV-B is mainly absorbed at the upper layers of the skin (epidermis) due to its short wavelength and that UV-A can penetrate deeper into the skin (dermis) due to its longer wavelength. And, since UV-B is mainly absorbed in the epidermis, it is the main driver for sunburn and skin cancers, and since UV-A can go into the dermis, it is the main driver of photoaging. So, using a sunscreen that has both UV-A and UV-B protection would be of great importance with scientific research indicating that daily sunscreen use plays an important role in preventing photoaging.
Beyond sunscreen, science indicates that Galla chinensis suppresses UV-B oxidative stress and MMP-1 expression; Neonauclea reticulata water extract decreases expression of various MMPs; Coffea arabica (Coffee) leaf extract inhibits expression of various MMPs; and Polypodium leucotomos extract directly inhibits MMPs.
Procedures that Promote collagen
Microneedling
Microneedling is a minimally-invasive cosmetic procedure that uses very fine needles to address “skin rejuvenation, acne scarring, rhytides, surgical scars, dyschromia, melasma, enlarged pores, and transdermal drug delivery.”
How does microneedling work? Research shows that microneedling is a controlled method to cause skin trauma and activate the body’s own wound-healing process. The wound-healing process is a 3-step process where the immune system is triggered to cause inflammation, leading to the activation of collagen-producing cells, and ultimately leading to collagen production and skin tightening.
How effective is microneedling? A small 2015 study showed that 6 microneedling treatments done every 2 weeks lead to significant improvement in photoaged skin with skin showing increased leaves of collagen.
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP)
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is a nutrient dense serum made from the patient’s own blood that has been shown by literature to “contribute to the acceleration of healing, tissue growth, and generation of hyaluronic acid.” This minimally-invasive procedure includes PRP being injected into the skin, and is commonly used for skin rejuvenation to address clinical signs of photoaging.
How does PRP work? Science says that the proteins and the growth factors in PRP “stimulate stem cells and improve cellular proliferation, differentiation, and regeneration,” which ultimately leads to activation of collagen producing cells to make collagen in the skin “and other elements of the extracellular matrix” for skin rejuvenation.
How effective is PRP? There are various methods as to which PRP can be delivered into the skin. The first method is topical application with microneedling and the second method is through injection directly into the skin. Research indicates that 3 treatments of topical application of PRP with microneedling done every 2 weeks led to a subjective improvement in general appearance, skin firmness-sagging, and wrinkle state. Additionally, science suggests that the PRP acts synergistically with microneedling in the activation of collagen-producing cells. Scientific research also shows that PRP injections led to cellular improvements in photoaged skin and that PRP injections improved skin texture. And, in our clinic, we do a combination of microneedling technology with PRP
Radiofrequency
Radiofrequency (RF) uses electric-based heat to address signs of photoaging, and literature indicates that radiofrequency has been shown to be “beneficial for the treatment of facial wrinkles, brow lifting, periorbital wrinkles, nasolabial folds, jowls, marionette lines, jawline contouring, and neck laxity.” However, since it does use heat technology, those with implanted medical devices are not good candidates. Additionally, literature indicates that radiofrequency is “less effective in older patients, either due to decreased capacity for dermal healing, decreased tissue hydration, or increased severity of preoperative deformity.”
How does RF work? Science says that RF breaks down existing collagen and stimulates the production of new, shorter collagen leading to “lasting tissue tightening.” Literature also shows that RF “has demonstrated clinical improvement of skin tightening, texture, and wrinkles.”
Polydioxanone (PDO) threads
Polydioxanone (PDO) threads are absorbable surgical sutures that have been used in surgery for many years, with science indicating that these sutures being completed absorbed by the body in 4-6 months. This science shows that absorption process ultimately leads to the activation of collagen-producing cells, and leading to the formation of collagen in targeted areas. And because of this, PDO threads have been touted as a method for a “non-surgical facelift.”
There are different types of PDO threads, such as smooth/monofilament threads and barbed threads. Both types of threads will activate collagen-producing cells via the absorption process. According to literature, smooth/monofilament threads are meant produce a firming effect and regenerate tissue, but it does not produce a lifting effect. Barbed threads, on the other hand, “clasp” the skin to produce a lifting effect.
For more information on PDO threads, I highly recommend The Things We Do.
Summary & Takeaways
Collagen is one of the most abundant proteins in mammals, with there being more than 16 different types of collagen! Collagen has also been connected to skin health as oral collagen peptide supplements have been claimed to support skin hydration and improve fine lines and wrinkles, as there are several studies cited in this blog that show just that. However, there are still apprehensions amongst the medical providers with oral collagen peptides since we still do not fully understand how orally consumed collagen that is digested into amino acids translates to improved skin health.
But, we do know that there are some triggers that cause collagen breakdown, such as chronic sun exposure. And, with the collagen that the body natural makes on its own (without collagen supplements), it would be worthwhile to protect the collagen that the body has already made to promote optimal skin health. And with protection, there is sunscreen and various plant extracts that have been shown to prevent activation of collagen-degrading enzymes. And if protection just isn’t cutting it, there are various minimally-invasive cosmetic procedures that have been shown to build collagen in a targeted manner in the skin.
As a recap, here are those collagen-building procedures that were mentioned in this blog:
Microneedling
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP)
Radiofrequency (RF)
Polydioxanone (PDO) threads
But do know that there are many more!
In our clinic, we offer platelet-rich plasma (PRP) with microneedling for those seeking to build collagen in their skin. It is recommended that those interested schedule a consultation first to see if they are good candidates for PRP with microneedling and to understand how this procedure may be worthwhile for them.
Thanks so much for reading today, and I hope you found this very helpful and interesting!
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