Healing Dark Spots Holistically
If you’re like me, you’re prone to dark spots. Because of my skin type, I will get dark spots after prolonged sun exposure, after breakouts heal, and after any sort of skin inflammation. Thanks genetics!
With summer here, I am even-more diligent about stopping dark spots in their tracks by targeting the triggers of my dark spots.
Because, I’m all about prevention!
But, you know, I’m not perfect, and sometimes I’ll get a brown spot. So, I have some favorite skincare ingredients and aesthetic procedures for more-even skin tone.
So, in this blog post, I am going to share my secrets for dark spots from a holistic & science-based point-of-view.
DISCLAIMER: THIS POST DOES NOT CONSTITUTE AS MEDICAL ADVICE; IS NOT MEANT TO DIAGNOSE, PREVENT, TREAT, OR CURE ANY MEDICAL CONDITIONS OR DISEASE; AND IS MEANT FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. THE INFORMATION IN THIS POST DOES NOT REPLACE THE ADVICE OF YOUR MEDICAL PROVIDER. SPEAK TO YOUR DOCTOR BEFORE STARTING ANYTHING NEW OR SCHEDULE YOUR APPOINTMENT WITH ME.
Prevention is key
As a licensed naturoapthic doctor, I am all about prevention. But, the only way for me to prevent dark spots on my skin is by identifying the causes and triggers of my dark spots.
For me, prolonged sun exposure, breakouts, and any sort of skin inflammation usually causes uneven skin darkening.
So, I want to make sure that I adequately protect my skin from dark spot-causing ultraviolet rays from the sun, mitigate breakouts from happening, and prevent skin inflammation
Sun protection:
I’m sure you know by now that sunscreen is an important tool to protect the skin from skin-damaging ultraviolet rays that could also trigger dark spots.
So, I personally follow some guidelines from the Skin Cancer Foundation when applying sunscreen. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends using a broad spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UV-A and UV-B radiation; to use 2 tablespoons of sunscreen on exposures areas of the face and body, and that a nickel-sized amount is used for the face alone; and to apply sunscreen 30 minutes before sun exposure and to reapply every 2 hours.
Now, what type of sunscreen do I use? There are 2 different kinds: mineral-based sunscreen and chemical sunscreen. I honestly bounce back and forth between the different kinds, as each type has their pros and cons.
With mineral-based sunscreen, it uses zinc and/or titanium to block ultraviolet rays from penetrating into the skin. This option is considered more “natural,” but it can be thick - especially zinc-based sunscreens. In addition, zinc-based sunscreens can leave a white cast on people with more-melanated skin. And, I’ve heard from some people of color that titanium-based sunscreens can leave a blue tint.
With chemical sunscreens, it uses different chemicals to absorb ultraviolet rays to prevent those rays from penetrating into the skin. While it is chemical-based, these sorts of sunscreens are usually lighter in texture. In addition, it is sheer and does not leave a white cast.
Like what I said, there are pros and cons. So, it’s up to you (and your provider) to figure out what the best options are for you.
Breakouts:
As mentioned earlier, breakouts and pimples causes dark spots on my skin, especially after they start to heal and go down (called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation - PIH). So, I make it a goal to address the unique factors that I know trigger my breakouts so that I don’t get PIH.
For me, my pimple triggers are:
Diet/nutrition: Dairy and alcohol
Stress
However, science tells us that there are many factors that cause and trigger acne. But, when we build it down, it seems like acne is driven by a combination of hormones and inner inflammation.
When looking at the science, the following inner imbalances have been linked to acne:
Hormones: Researchers indicate that androgen hormones, like testosterone, drive the process that causes acne at the skin level. Androgen hormones specifically tell the skin to make more oil and produce more keratin, which leads to a clogged pore. There are several reasons why someone could have higher androgens, some of which are mentioned below.
Diet/nutrition: Dairy and foods that spike blood sugar have been shown to trigger acne-causing hormone imbalance by telling the body to make more androgen hormones.
Gut health: Science shows that gut bacteria imbalances and Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS) are both linked to acne. When these gut issues are addressed in my acne patients, I’ve seen that their skin starts to heal up as well.
Nutrient deficiencies: Researchers discovered that vitamin D deficiency can be found in people with acne. And, researchers suggest that vitamin D may play an integral role in optimal inflammatory response in acne. For some of my patients with adult acne, I’ve seen that addressing optimal vitamin D levels have been helpful for them - especially once we get them on a targeted dose after getting labs.
Ovarian health: Scientists discovered that females with an ovarian condition called Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome (PCOS) can experience higher levels of androgen hormones. While scientists are still trying to understand more about this condition, researchers suggests that insulin resistance from blood sugar issues could be contributing to higher levels of androgens.
Stress & Adrenal response: The adrenal glands are stress-responding organs that release hormones during states of stress. One of those hormones is called DHEA, which is an androgen hormone.
So, when I treat acne in my patients, I want to identify and treat the unique root issues contributing to their acne. Now, don’t go starting supplementing and addressing root issues on your own - always speak to your doctor first before starting anything new to learn what’s worth your while.
Skin inflammation from eczema:
Other than breakouts, skin inflammation can trigger my PIH. I’ve been open about my eczema that I’ve had since a child on the Holistic Beauty Podcast. And, eczema can drive my PIH - especially once the rash has healed. So, I want to mitigate eczema flares.
For me, the following trigger my eczema:
Diet/nutrition: Alcohol
Stress
Fragrances
While these are my unique triggers, it doesn’t mean these are your triggers as well. So, speak to your doctor to identify what triggers eczema (if you do have eczema).
Learn about adult acne in this episode of the Holistic Beauty Podcast:
My fave skincare actives
Since I am dark spot-prone, I have tried SO MANY skincare actives and prescription medications for my dark spots.
Now, I don’t know about you, but my skin just doesn’t respond to vitamin C! I’ve tried so many different types of vitamin C serums, and they didn’t work for me skin.
Because of that, I started to dabble in different skincare actives that address dark spots. And, I found 2 that I am absolutely obsessed with.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3, and researchers discovered that it could support even skin tone.
Scientists discovered that topical niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties and could help with dark spots by decreasing transfer of melanosomes.
Tranexamic acid
I am OBSESSED with topical tranexamic acid. I have seen such a great improvement since being regular with it for the past few months. I have received so many compliments about how radiant and glowy my skin looks!
So, if you haven’t heard of tranexamic acid before, scientists found that topical tranexamic acid inhibits UV-induced plasminogen activity in keratinocytes to address dark spots!
Now, I know that my skin isn’t your skin. So, your skin might actually love vitamin C. It might also need other skin brighteners that your trusted skin provider may recommend to you!
Remember, always speak to your trusted skin provider first before starting anything new so that you learn what’s best for your skin and what is worth your while and investment
Brightening aesthetic procedures
You know, sometimes I wanna treat my skin to a nice procedure at a medspa with an esthetician or a licensed medical provider. I have had the opportunity to try many skin procedures and have also researched them extensively because of the Holistic Beauty Podcast.
Peels
Researchers found that glycolic acid peels have been shown to reduce the appearance of uneven skin darkening when combined with azelaic acid
While I haven’t tried a glycolic peel before, I have tried a mandelic acid, which left my skin glowing! And a 2009 study found that a combination peel of salicylic acid and mandelic acid had “higher efficacy” than glycolic acid for post-acne dark spots!
Platelet-rich plasma (PRP)
A pilot study showed that PRP significantly improved uneven skin darkening within 6 weeks of treatment where 4 treatment sessions were completed every 2 weeks.
I have personally tried PRP, specifically as PRP with microneedling, in the past, and I’ve seen that it helped lighten some of the dark spots I had.
Lasers and light therapies
Scientists found that lasers have been shown to reduce the appearance of uneven skin darkening, but do not seem to provide long-term benefit in some subjects. Researchers discover that Intense pulsed light (IPL) has been shown to reduce the appearance of uneven skin darkening, but needs to be completed weekly to maintain its effects.
While I haven’t tried lasers before, I have tried IPL, which left my skin glowing! However, I did forget to wear sunscreen afterwards, and my dark spots came back.
As always, speak to your trusted provider first to learn what’s worth your while as some of these aesthetic treatments may not be best for some skin types.
Learn about chemical + physical exfoliants in this episode of the Holistic Beauty Podcast:
Summary & Takeaways
Rather than chasing my dark spots with skincare actives and aesthetic treatments, I want to make sure that I prevent future dark spots with the best of my ability.
For me, I choose to prevent dark spots by addressing the causes of my dark spots, which are sunlight and skin inflammation from acne and eczema. To support skin resiliency against dark spot-inducing sunlight, I choose to wear sunscreen regularly and make it a point to apply and reapply the appropriate amounts at the right times. To support healthy skin and manage my acne and eczema, I have found it helpful to address the root issues to prevent flare ups.
When I want to directly address the dark spots that I have, I tried vitamin C. But, that active skincare ingredient was not cutting it for me, and I have found that niacinamide and topical tranexamic acid were best for my skin type. When I want more-intensive treatments, I have tried PRP, peels, and light therapies. And there is science indicating that these aesthetic procedures may be helpful. However, it’s always worthwhile to speak to your trusted provider to learn what’s best for you and your skin type, as some of theses things could negatively affect skin.
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