Should You Be Skin Cycling Retinoids?
My take on skin cycling as a holistic acne expert
Many people online and in-office have been asking me what my thoughts are on skin cycling as a holistic and integrative skin expert.
I’ve seen lots of people post about how skin cycling has been helpful for the retinoids they’ve been using on social media and the internet. And, I wanted to do some deeper diving about what skin cycling was before I could give people my opinion.
So, let’s talk about skin cycling from my naturopathic POV! Let’s dive into what it is, who it’s best for, and more!
Disclaimer: This post does not constitute as medical advice; is not meant to diagnose, prevent, treat, or cure any medical conditions or disease; and is meant for educational purposes only. The information in this post does not replace the advice of your medical provider. Speak to your doctor before starting anything new OR schedule your appointment with me.
What is Skin Cycling & What are retinoids?
Skin cycling is a method of rotating different actives to minimize skin irritation. It was developed dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe, MD, and is a 4-night cycle.
How skin cycling is done: On the first night an exfoliant is used; on the second night, a retinoid is used; and on nights 3 and 4, no actives are used, and these nights are focused on skin barrier support with moisturizers.
What are retinoids?
For people who don’t know what retinoids are, they are vitamin A derivatives that can be found in skincare products and can be found in prescriptions creams.
Retinoids are primarily used by people to address breakouts and support healthy skin aging, as there is science saying that certain retinoids can support healthier and clearer skin for breakouts and support collagen production for graceful aging.
Retinoids do have the reputation of irritating the skin. And because of this, a lot of people are wary about using retinoid products. However, many people on social media and the internet have said that skin cycling has been helpful for reducing that irritation.
So, who should be doing skin cycling and not? Well, keep on reading!
Who is skin cycling for and not for?
Who skin cycling is for:
I think that skin cycling is ideal for people who have never use retinoid products before. I also think that it’s great for people who have sensitive and sensitized skin.
Skin cycling is a great framework for people to follow, especially if people want to introduce a retinoid into their skincare routine.
However, people who do skin cycling for a while might see that their skin is eventually able to tolerate more frequent use of retinoids.
who is skin cycling not for?
If someone has been using retinoids for a while, they might not see a change with skin cycling. Most studies looking at the positive benefits of topical retinoids have subjects using the retinoid daily - not intermittently (like how it’s done with skin cycling).
But as always, speak to your doctor before starting anything new - especially with retinoids. Some people should not use retinoids, such as people who are pregnant. And since there are so many different types of retinoids to choose from, it would be worthwhile to speak to your doctor to learn what would be the best for your skin.
Why looking at acne holistically is helpful
While retinoids are great for people who experience breakouts, I believe that it’s just a band-aid solution. Retinoids work to support skin health for people with breaktous by increasing cellular turnover and driving down inflammation in the skin. But, retinoids are only effective as long as they’re being continuously used.
So, what if someone gets off of retinoids? What happens to their skin then?
Well, their breakouts could come back! And, that’s because the underlying root issues of their acne weren’t addressed from the get-go.
How I address acne holistically:
As a licensed naturoapthic doctor, I aim to holistically and integratively address my patient’s skin issues. And, I strongly believe that skin health is a reflection of inner health - and acne is no different!
From what I’ve seen in my clinical experience, addressing underlying root issues can provide more-meaningful and more-sustainable solutions, as my patients understand how to best-manage their triggers and how to treat the causes of their breakouts.
Now, what are these underlying issues?
Here’s a quick breakdown of what science has to say:
Diet/nutrition: Science shows that excessive consumption of specific proteins and carbohydrates could trigger acne-causing hormone imbalance. When treating my patients with acne, I assert the importance of diet and nutrition, and how it is the foundation of health and wellness. I always provide my patients hormone-supporting dietary recommendations to address overall health for healthier skin.
Supplements: There is literature saying that certain types of protein powders, B-vitamins, and minerals could trigger acne in some individuals. In my clinical experience, I have seen that swapping out some supplements have been helpful for some of my patients.
Medications: It is widely known that some prescribed medications can trigger acne-causing hormone imbalance or just trigger acne in general in some individuals.
Stress & adrenal response: Stress hormones could trigger acne! There are many dietary and herbal options that I can recommend to my patients to support optimal adrenal response and healthy stress response.
Ovarian conditions: Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome (PCOS) is a complex metabolic-hormone disruption where people have high levels of testosterone and DHEA, leading to acne and other symptoms of high androgens, such as head hair loss and facial hair growth. And, there are several tests, imaging procedures, and other work-up options to identify PCOS.
Gut health & Gut bacteria: Science shows that both IBS and gut bacteria imbalance are linked to acne. In people who experience IBS symptoms and acne, I recommend gut bacteria testing. And, I usually see that people with acne have gut bacteria imbalance! After treating that gut bacteria imbalance, I have seen many of my patients start to achieve healthier and clearer skin AND start to experience positive gut changes.So, get testing first before starting any gut bacteria protocol.
Nutrient insufficiencies: Science shows that people with acne are more likely to experience vitamin D deficiency and zinc deficiency. And, researchers have found that when these vitamin D and zinc were repleted in people with those deficiencies, it lead to positive skin changes. And, there are labs that I can recommend to my patients to see if this is a contributing root issues to understand which supplements and dosages are safe for them.
What can you do if you want to address your acne naturally?
The answer is simple: Work with a licensed naturopathic provider. As mentioned earlier, licensed naturopathic providers are experts in holistic and integrative medicine.
As integrative medicine experts, we are trained in both natural and conventional options. So, you will be able to capture a vast array of treatment options to help you achieve your skin goals when you work with a licensed naturoapthic doctor.
If you are outside the state a California, a great resource to find a licensed naturoapthic doctor in your state is the Institute for Natural Medicine’s directory: https://naturemed.org/find-an-nd/.
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